Primary vs. Secondary Numbing: A Step-by-Step Guide for PMU Artists
A two-application numbing protocol is the standard most experienced PMU artists build their sessions around: a primary cream before the procedure, and a secondary gel once the skin is open. Here's how to run it from start to finish, using the exact timing on the product's own Drug Facts label — not general industry rules of thumb.
Elite Permanent Makeup & Cosmetology College has trained licensed PMU artists in Los Angeles since 2012 and is licensed by the California Bureau for Private Postsecondary Education (BPPE). Last reviewed: August 2026.
Quick answer: A full protocol has two applications: primary cream on intact skin before the first pass, and secondary gel on open skin after it. Both follow the same labeled directions — a thick layer, covered with occlusive wrap, removed after 20–60 minutes — and neither product should be used more than once every 24 hours. This isn't a repeated touch-up protocol; it's two products, each used once, at two different points in the session.
In this article
The full protocol timeline
| Stage | Product | Timing (per labeled directions) | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Prep | Cleanser | 2–5 min | Remove oil/makeup for even absorption |
| Primary (once) | Numbing Cream | Thick layer, occlusive wrap, remove after 20–60 min | Numb intact skin before first pass |
| Transition | Wipe clean | 1–2 min | Remove residue before needle contact |
| Secondary (once) | Numbing Gel | Thick layer, occlusive wrap, remove after 20–60 min | Manage sensation on open skin after the first pass |
Neither product should be used more than once every 24 hours, per the labeled directions printed on the packaging.
Step 1: Cleanse and prep the skin
Before any anesthetic goes on, cleanse the treatment area thoroughly and let it dry completely. Product applied over oil, makeup residue, or moisture won't absorb evenly, and it can shorten how long the numbing effect actually holds once the procedure starts.
Step 2: Apply the primary cream
Apply a thick, even layer of Elite Numbing Cream to the intact treatment area and cover with occlusive wrap, per the labeled directions. Leave in place for 20–60 minutes. Cutting this step short under time pressure is one of the most common reasons a client reports discomfort on the first pass — build the full window into your appointment scheduling.
Step 3: Remove and begin
Once the labeled contact time is up, remove the wrap and wipe the area clean. At this point the skin should be sufficiently numb for the first pass to begin.
Step 4: Apply the secondary gel once, after the first pass
Once the skin barrier has been opened, the primary cream is no longer the right tool — it's not intended for reapplication to already-open skin. This is the point to apply Elite Numbing Gel: a thick, even layer over the open treatment area, covered with occlusive wrap, following the same 20–60 minute labeled directions. See exactly why cream isn't reused at this stage in Can You Use Numbing Cream on Broken Skin?
Step 5: Remove and continue — no further reapplication
Remove the gel, wipe the area clean, and continue the procedure. Per the product's labeled directions, do not use more than once every 24 hours — this is a single, defined application, not an on-demand touch-up repeated through the session. Plan the length and pacing of longer procedures with this limit in mind rather than assuming additional applications are available mid-session.
Why the label's frequency limit matters
Both products carry the same labeled direction: apply once, per the instructions, and do not use again for 24 hours. Building your session plan around a single, correctly timed application of each product — rather than repeated reapplication — keeps your protocol consistent with what's actually printed on the packaging. For the underlying mechanism of how each formula works, see What Is Numbing Cream and How Does It Work? and the full side-by-side breakdown in Numbing Cream vs. Numbing Gel.
Frequently asked questions
What happens if I skip the primary cream stage entirely?
The client goes through the first pass — often on the most sensitive intact skin of the session — without any anesthetic preparation. Secondary gel isn't a substitute; it's intended for already-open skin, not intact skin in advance.
Can I apply the gel again later if a long session needs more numbing?
No — per the labeled directions, do not use more than once every 24 hours. Plan session length and client expectations around a single application rather than reapplying as sensation returns during a long procedure.
Can I shorten the primary cream's contact time if I'm running behind schedule?
Shortening the contact time below the labeled 20–60 minute window is one of the most common causes of clients feeling more than expected on the first pass. Build the full time into your appointment scheduling rather than compressing it under time pressure.
Does the two-application protocol change for different PMU procedures?
The sequence and labeled timing stay the same for brows, lips, and eyeliner — apply cream once before, gel once after the first pass. See our lip-specific notes in Numbing for Lip Blush.
This article is educational information for licensed PMU professionals. Always follow your product's printed Drug Facts directions and your state's scope-of-practice regulations.
